Taco & Vino is about two things. The first is the gaonera. Invented in 1968 at Taqueria El Califa de Leon, it’s deceptively simple: paper-thin slices of beef that kiss the grill then land in a soft corn tortilla with little more than salt and a squeeze of lime.

You can guess the second thing. Across the wine list, sommeliers Javi Coindreau and Liber Osorio embrace smaller producers, sustainable vineyards and easy-drinking bottles – including a wine they’ve made together in Adelaide.

The concept comes from executive chef Pablo Galindo, a Mexico City native. At Taco & Vino, he brings authentic flavours from his home city across to Sydney. The restaurant is low-lit, moody and feels lived-in. Mirrored ceiling tiles add some space to the skinny dining room. It all coalesces into a space that’s part neighbourhood wine bar, part Mexican diner. And there’s not much like it in Sydney.