Levi Eun sees Sagye as a continuation of his broader mission to expand Melbourne’s understanding of Korean cuisine. The Ondo founder’s 23-seat Russell Street restaurant is dedicated to gomtang, the traditional Korean beef soup that simmers for hours before it arrives at the table and is ladled over rice with black pepper and house-made kimchi on the side.

At Sagye, the broth is made using three cuts of Wagyu: brisket, shank and chuck eye roll. Wagyu marbling is graded from 0 to 9+, where a higher grade denotes more fat in the muscle. The beef is simmered for four hours, resulting in a clear yet deeply flavoured broth. A special gomtang adds beef tendon, leading to a richer broth and an added textural element. The restaurant goes through almost 100 kilograms of beef a day, with one chef dedicated solely to the stock.

The supporting cast is deliberately small: house-made pork mandu, bulgogi and kimchi designed to complement rather than distract from the main event. House-made drinks round out the offering with sujeonggwa (cinnamon punch) and slow-brewed sikhye (rice punch). The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner service on a walk-in-only basis.