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While The Railway Hotel has lived a few lives, it’s always held onto its nostalgic ‘70s feel. The previous owners Peter and Miriam Negrelli took over the Italian-leaning pub in 1972 and managed it for more than 50 years. Today, it’s run by Mat Everett (Corner Hotel , Northcote Social Club), but nods to the Negrelli’s legacy in more ways than one.

It’s still a jumble of simply furnished rooms and cosy nooks, decked out with terrazzo tiling, wood panelling, vintage beer paraphernalia and a peekaboo fish tank, which are all enough to make you feel like you’re walking into a mid-century time capsule.

The menu has a few pub classics like steak and parmas, but there are plenty of nods to the venue’s forebears. (Miriam almost single-handedly ran the kitchen, serving up home-style Italian plates.) Of course, there’s still lasagne, which is souped up with a slow-cooked ragu of minced pork and veal, pork and fennel sausage, salami, and pancetta, topped with provolone and mozzarella and served with slaw. The broken pasta is a play on the classic pasta in brodo (broth) – here, fettuccine is cracked and served in double chicken stock with poached mussels and calamari.

Smaller options are available, too, and might include the arancini (a suppli-style oval) of buttery risotto blended with house sugo and stuffed with basil and bocconcini, and a dish of ricotta whipped with confit garlic, served with fresh and pickled veg.

You can enjoy it inside or venture to the concrete-lined courtyard and find twinkling fairy lights, shady trees and plenty of casual seating. Like any other classic pub, it also has a pool table and foosball table inside, and a bustling community atmosphere throughout. This faithful neighbourhood haunt attracts locals new and old, just like it has for generations.