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Good things are happening inside this renovated 1860s church in McLaren Vale. Fleurieu Peninsula-dwellers and city folk flock to Joe’s at Sabella for its Italian menu and big community vibe.

Every Wednesday is Locals Night, which involves free BYO and tables crowded with the weekly pasta special, house-made focaccia and sides showcasing local ingredients. The rest of the week is a wider exploration of Italian fare via small plates and pizzas (order the white razor clam number with chowder bechamel and speck).

This being McLaren Vale, Joe’s runs a revolving wine list, with every producer based within 20 kilometres of the restaurant. Vaulted ceilings, stained-glass windows and old photos of the Sabella family – the winemakers who used to operate the venue as a cellar door – add to the charm.