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As you descend down each step to Somporn Phosri's basement restaurant, chatter and music grows louder. When you finally reach the 150-seat space, you’ll be hit with the potent aroma of Thai soups, skewers and desserts while the songs of Ronan Keating, Celine Dion and Whitney Houston play in the background. The music may be Western, but the food is bona fide Thai. Most dishes are inspired by Isan cuisine, but the vast menu showcases flavours and plates from all over Thailand.

Some dishes are heat-friendly, others are not. Each one of Dodee’s tom yum soups, for example, is labelled with its spice level, from zero to seven. (Top Melbourne chef Rosheen Kaul loves Dodee’s tom yum – but even she advises against seven.)

Group-friendly dishes include pad thai, seafood platters, papaya salads and plates full of barbecued meat. Don’t leave without sampling the dessert menu.