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Descend a moody concrete staircase and you’ll find yourself in a hidden, cave-like space surrounded by old rock walls. From the team behind Rick Shores and Southside , Central draws its inspiration from Hong Kong kitchens.

Start with dishes like Wagyu beef tartare served Cantonese chu hou-style (in a fermented soybean sauce); or drunken chicken. Follow with dim sum, like scallop and prawn dumplings, Peking duck potstickers, and king crab and prawn spring rolls. Larger dishes include wok-fried lobster noodles and char siu Borrowdale pork.

While much of the menu nods to traditional Hong Kong cuisine, there are occassionally twists, such as a pineapple bun (traditionally a sweet treat served with butter) filled with crispy prosciutto and smoked butter.

The extensive 250-bottle wine list features selections from Australia and abroad, including rare drops from China’s Ningxia region.