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The clang of the wok, the spit of the grill and the glow of the clay oven set the scene inside Ashe. Fire is the beating heart of the CBD restaurant from Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt’s Bentley Group, with executive chef Khanh Nguyen leading the kitchen.

In the kitchen, Nguyen revisits ideas forged over six years in Melbourne – echoes of his time running Sunda and Aru, distilled into something leaner, more assured and unmistakably his own. His culinary experience combines with influences from travels across Vietnam, alongside Thai and Malaysian influences. Rather than chasing strict authenticity, Nguyen uses Southeast Asian flavours as a framework, weaving in native Australian ingredients to sharpen acidity and contrast.

Vietnam’s oc restaurants – bustling seafood joints where oysters, clams and snails arrive drenched in sauces – inspired Ashe’s shellfish plates. Fried dumplings riff on the crisp shell of banh goi. A deeply caramelised lamb Barnsley chop carries the unmistakable perfume of the grill. It’s a nod to Nguyen’s childhood, marinated in his mum’s mix of lemongrass, sweet soy and Maggi seasoning.

The fit-out is warm and restrained. Wood panels and green accents on the walls and booth seating soften the space, which is anchored by the long, open kitchen on one side of the room.